After a few days of living the swank Batumi high-rise luxury life, we drive north toward Svaneti region and the town of Ushguli. It’s near the Russian border. We spent the night in the Abkhazia – Georgia border town of Zugdidi. Found a small family run guest house and were welcomed to an upstairs room with a balcony where I could cook. It is cold out there and the butane camp stove is barely able to crank out enough BTUs to overcome the cold and cook the food. So, I move it into the bathroom to cook in the “warmth”. The nice Georgian lady tells us in her cute broken English that the town has one of only four authentic Napoleon Death Masks. It’s in the building over by the park… just a few hundred meters from our room.